A mini vertical tasting of Chateau Latour

2006, 2009: Grand Vin de Chateau Latour; a vertical tasting; two wines; two years with different climatic conditions.

Ioana Bidian • Marti, 04.10.2022

news

This tasting can be called a mini vertical because it is about two different harvests, and two different years of the same producer.  

When in a tasting there are two or more wines from the same range, from the same winery, it is interesting to see what was the impact of the climatic conditions of those years. 

At the level of the vineyard, the only constant is the soil, because each year has different climatic conditions, and these require the producers to maintain the vineyard through different techniques and methods, which in the end ensure the quality of the grapes that they want it. 

Each year has its own variables that manufacturers can't really change or modify. What they can do on the plantation is to make sure that they are always ready, from the beginning of the season, to meet the conditions of each year, so they can help nature to give them what they want. 

Therefore, a vertical tasting ideally organized more than 2 years ago, is an opportunity to understand what is the essence of that vineyard, from which the grapes come. 

Chateau Latour is located in the heart of the Médoc wine region and over the years has played an important role in the region's history. 

The first documentary attestation appears in 1331 in authorization for the construction of a fortified tower, and then the tower is mentioned in a chronicle of the Hundred Years' War, describing it as a fortress built to defend the estuary at Saint Maubert. Until the 16th century, the lands in the area were cultivated, partly with vines, but without a value given to the wine produced. In the 18th century, the property came into the possession of Nicolas Alexandre de Segur, named "Prince of Wine" by Louis XV. The British nobility, seduced by the extraordinary quality of Chateau Latour wines, began to prefer them so much that in 1714, a barrel of Latour wine was worth five times more than any other wine from the Bordeaux region. Due to its growing reputation, Chateau Latour specialized in the production of high-quality wines and gained international renown. 

After 1993, at Chateau Latour, under the leadership of François Pinault, significant changes were made to sustain excellence in wines. A total renovation of the wine cellar, winemaking facilities, and storage areas was carried out, which allowed even greater precision in the production of wines. A new cellar for maturing and aging was created, following the decision to no longer sell en primeur wines.

Chateau Latour has a magnificent mosaic of vine stumps, some of which are over a hundred years old. The 92 hectares of vines are a constantly evolving organism that requires patience, attention to detail, and a lot of care to allow the young vines to develop and succeed in the old stumps. 

The main terroir around the castle, l'Enclos, overlooks the Gironde estuary; it is the river and the ocean that, over the centuries, have given the vineyard its geological complexity and that ensure a mild climate.

"Grand Vin" are wines made exclusively from grapes harvested from "old" vines with an average age of over 60 years. L'Enclos located on a hilltop, 16 meters above the Gironde level with the plots of Gravettes, Sarmentier, and Pièce de Château, expresses the character of the terroir and forms the identity of the wine every year.

The climatic conditions of the two years were described by the producer as follows:

"The year 2006 had three very different climatic periods between winter and harvest. January and February were much cooler than previous years and the return to normal rainfall helped restore soil reserves. A drought then began in March and continued until the end of June. Flowering went perfectly from May 26. The dry weather until mid-August did not allow normal vegetative growth and the grapes were small in size. The end of August was much more variable, alternating cloudy, rainy periods with long sunny spells. The first ten days of September were beautiful and sunny. The weather deteriorated after 9/11 and the rains arrived, prompting us to start harvesting on 9/19; harvesting was completed on October 9.

Despite the heavy rain in September, the wines were very intensely colored and classy, ​​showing great power and beautiful liveliness, with a pronounced Cabernet expression. The fruit is less exuberant, but the 'Latour' character is very much present. A wine that will benefit from very long aging and will require a lot of time in the bottle before showing an integrated structure."

"After a relatively wet start in spring, 2009 will be remembered for its exceptionally hot and dry summer, which was even sunnier than 2005. The coolness of the early spring led to slow growth. Starting in May, the year was marked by monthly temperatures well above seasonal norms, allowing the vines to recover. The fine summer weather arrived and was interrupted only by a few stormy spells in July which did not allow the soil to renew its reserves. This deficit increased in August and September. Shortly after fallow entry began, the vine experienced significant levels of stress. Very dry conditions in the first half of September resulted in the concentration of substances in the still small grains. The rain on September 19-20 was very beneficial in refining the tannins. Harvesting began on Wednesday, September 23, and continued until October 10, in splendid sunshine and perfect health.

A high concentration and an unprecedented amount of tannins characterized the wines, which possessed extraordinary aromatic intensity, freshness, and authenticity. The wine is rich, with ripe tannins, a mineral taste, with a very long and persistent finish. An exceptional year that will only get better for many years to come.”

2006 Grand Vin de Chateau Latour, Pauillac 

A rich and very well-structured wine with a ruby-violet color. It opens with notes of ripe cherries, licorice, and incense, but surprises you with notes of coffee and currants. It has a dense, elegant, and well-structured body with a surprising minerality and an acidity reminiscent of blackberries. Strong, slightly dusty, and woody tannins give the wine impeccable balance and a great finish.

2009 Grand Vin de Chateau Latour, Pauillac 

It is an extremely complex wine that gives you a feeling of richness and softness at the same time. A dark ruby ​​wine that has a beautiful freshness pigmented with aromas of black cherries, currants, and plum jam, slightly smoky with pleasant notes of tobacco leaves and rhubarb earth. The palate is full and intense, full-bodied, with finely dusty ripe tannins that add a spicy touch combined with berry and apricot kernel flavors. A long finish with a pleasant minerality. A truly spectacular wine.